Monkey Face

With Jackson visiting from NZ I thought it would be a shame for him not to get out to Smith rock, perhaps the only real world-class climbing in Oregon, so we headed up early Saturday morning (too early for a boulderer apparently) and made the 3.5 hour drive from Southern Oregon to Terrebonne. Our plan was to climb the Pioneer route on Monkey face which is one of the classic long climbs at Smith, the only problem it involves a pitch of easy aiding up a bolt ladder and neither of us had ever aid climbed. No problem though - that's what You-Tube is for! So after some online education and a bit of practice in a tree the night before we were more or less experts - we just had to stop at the climbing shop on the way and pick up some aiders and a few other things. Jackson only purchased a few slings, a daisy chain and some biners, showing admiral restraint for a kiwi presented with American prices on climbing gear. It turned out the crux of the climb was the approach up misery ridge - a harsh intro to multi-pitch/trad climbing for a boulderer :-D

Jackson on the approach slog.

But at least the views are better than bouldering eh?

Jackson seconding the first roped pitch of the Pioneer route

The aid climbing was pretty straightforward other than the massive CFedness of managing the ropes.

Jackson realizing what he's been missing in all those years of bouldering, for better or worse.

About to step out of "panic point". Definitely the funnest pitch of the route; an easy 5.7 bolted pitch, but you get to step out of the cave above a solid 250 feet of exposure on to a slightly
overhanging face.

Looking back down the Panic Point pitch.


And finishing it off with a nice 50 meter free hanging abseil!


The route goes from the right hand notch up the face to the corner of the mouth and up the crest of the nose.


Jackson on the summit of the monkey.